Monday, July 21, 2008

Home again

We spent the rest of our holiday doing nothing. just relaxing by the pool, sleeping in our room, and enjoying to variety of cuisine available in the hotel. Every night was a themed night, so we had French, then Mediterranean, then Egyptian, then International… It was really good and better than having the same thing every day like we did on the Orchid.

But we flew home today and upon arriving at Gatwick, found ourselves among all the people we spent time with on the cruise ship! It was like a mini reunion! Then all it took was a short taxi ride to Gatwick Worth Hotel to pick up the car, and then we drove home. As much as I loved our honeymoon, it was nice to be back in our own bed again!!

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Luxor Museum

We want to see Luxor museum and so, armed with the helpful hints given to us at the beginning of our holiday, we find a taxi driver and order him to go straight to Luxor museum and go nowhere else. Our five minute taxi ride costs us $20 Egyptian - £2! He offers to take us somewhere else after our visit and we agree to meet him again at 12.30. the museum was lovely and cool and practically empty of people. It was so nice to be able to amble around and not worry about holding up the group or having to rush past things you want to see. Reuben feels a bit queasy but not as bad as I was, so he sits down for much of the visit.

To kill some time, we browse in the bookshop and are cornered by the owner. He offers me a mythology book for £20. I know its worth less and say I’m not interested. He then corners Reuben and says he takes cash, cheques, cards and we politely refuse again. But he stills persists, “Okay, £15” and we start to back up further into the shop. It was very intimidating and kinda scary. Reuben, poor thing, knocks over a pile of books on the floor as he steps back and the shopkeeper gets annoyed and says, “Fine, just go then.” We couldn’t wait and ran out as fast as we could. We stood near a tourist police guard for a bit of reassurance and the shopkeeper comes out of the shop again, brandishing the book and says to Reuben, “Fine, £10, but for her, not for you” and we snap it up! Nothing like a little haggling!!

Outside the taxi driver was waiting and said he wanted to go home and sleep. (Egyptians sleep in the middle of the day as its too hot to do anything.) We asked him to take us to MacDonalds and then he can go. Saying “I want MacDonalds” is a good way of saying that you want to see the Luxor marketplace but don’t want to be taken to every person he knows in town! Once at Maccy D’s, you can make your own way around the shops one block away and its supposed to be good. I say ‘supposed to be’ because we seem to have picked the wrong day and there isn’t a shop open anywhere! We stop in MD’s for a long cool drink and find another taxi to take us back to the hotel.

Before we step in, we notice a tourist shop open next door and go inside looking for magnets to take home. We chat to the shopkeeper who reveals that his brother has set up in North Yorkshire. “It’s a lot colder there than Egypt,” I half say to myself. “Yes,” the shopkeeper says, “its bloody freezing!” and we all burst out laughing! I finally chose a small Tutankhamen head for myself and a larger one for Anna, as she’s just moved out and might need something to decorate her flat. Next door to this place was a T-shirt shop and the guy was trying to sell us T-shirts for £20 each. We finally managed to haggle him down to £15 for three. We rock!

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Back to Luxor

We go back to Luxor later today so spend the morning by the pool. We meet a French couple next to us on the sun beds and Reuben chats away in his semi-fluent French and I catch a few words along the way. The woman doesn’t know a word of English so I have a slight advantage, but not by much!

While waiting for our pink-shirted rep, Reuben and I meet an English couple from… St Albans. Seriously. 20 miles down the road from us! Small world or what? They are going to the same hotel as us and we have a short conversation about the traffic in Cairo!

Our rep finally arrives and we say goodbye to him and our security escort at the airport. Back on a lovely Egypt Air flight to Luxor and then we meet with another minibus to take us to the hotel. Our Newcastle family companions leave us for Le Soffitel and we head on to Le Meridian, which is now owned by the Steigenberger group. Le Meridian hotel gives us a balcony room that overlooks the Nile and you can just make out the highest peak of the West bank where the Valley of the Kings is. Its all very grand!

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Pyramids

No matter how many times you’ve seen the pyramids on TV it is nothing compared to being right there and staring at them. To be honest I expected them to be a bit bigger… but then I expected the Sphinx to be smaller so it was a happy compromise! We walked around the pyramids, avoiding the locals trying to sell us camel rides. Anyone trying to take a photo of the camels were ordered to pay some money. I managed to sneak in a couple of shots for free! But Becky paid to stroke a camel which was what she really wanted to do so didn’t mind.

The police guard was still with us today and we have been joined by another Egyptologist, Iman. She is very amusing and chatters away about Cairo traffic. I ask if anyone actually takes driving tests in Egypt. Cairo is full of battered cars and we have not yet seen one vehicle without a bump or scratch. Iman laughs and says that even though Egyptians are supposed to take lessons, most get their licence through backhanders. Sneaky! She wouldn’t say if that was how she got her licence though!!

After spending ages walking around the pyramids and the Sphinx, we had a group photo of us all and made our way to the Citadel. It was beautiful and thankfully I was dressed appropriately in my shirt and cropped trousers. The other girls had to wear bright green robes as they wore vest tops and tiny shorts so had their shoulders, chests and upper legs exposed. Iman briefly told us how the Muslims prayed in the Citadel and the customs they observe. It led to an interesting discussion about how Muslims in other countries are usually more strict than those still in their countries of origin.

By now its 2pm and with the heat taking its toll we move to have lunch… at the Hard Rock CafĂ©. I know, I know, I’m in Egypt and we go to an American chain! Its sacrilege really… But we got there and found the buffet was not all that appetising anyway. Not so much as a burger! Wish we could have ordered off the menu! I was cheered up by the Harley in the lobby though. That made my day right there and then!

Lastly we went to the Cairo Museum. It has no air conditioning and is incredibly hot inside, almost sauna-like. There are fans dotted all over the walls and we keep trying to move so we can stand in front of them! Despite the heat it was a really cool museum and wished we could have spent more time on our own in there. We were shown all the treasures that Tutankhamen had inside his tomb and we even got to see all three of his sarcophaguses, as well as his jewellery, ankhs and all sorts of adornments. It was truly amazing. Sadly they have a lot of replicas in the museum as the originals are in other countries, mainly Britain, France and Germany. A lot was made about the Rosetta Stone in London and the head of Nefertiti in Berlin…!

By this time I feel terrible and poor Becky is very dehydrated and not well at all. We find the minibus and go back to the hotel. Trying to go by a back route we hit another driver. The minibus driver gets out, says sorry, and then drives off! Apparently this is the way things are done! It seems there are too many cars for all the narrow streets and I keep wincing every time we squeeze past yet another double-parked car!! In Cairo, rush hour is every hour. Almost like London, although you’ll find that going through Central at some times of the early hours its not so bad.

Back at the hotel we chill by the pool and just mooch around. The guy selling perfume in one of the hotel stores tries to sell me a non-alcoholic perfume made from pure lily of the valley. It is the most gorgeous smell in the world but I have no way of transporting it back.

Monday, July 14, 2008

Off to Cairo

I managed breakfast this morning and feel a bit better but not yet 100%. I still have stomach cramps and think I might have OCD because I’m washing my hands constantly like a madwoman!! If you touch Egyptian money you have to wash your hands. That means that all you have to do is shake someone’s hands and then you have to wash them, because they might have been touching money. Its just crazy! The water is so dodgy you even have to clean your teeth with bottled water. I might have got some shower water in my mouth. Easily done…!

We left the Orchid this morning and travelled to the airport with a family from Newcastle to go to Cairo for two nights. I have to say the Egypt Air flight was so much nicer than the First Choice one, and if we ever go to Egypt again we’re definitely going to book it with these people. The man behind us wouldn’t get off his mobile phone. He had two flight attendants asking him to switch off and as soon as we started landing he turned it on again and he had another telling off!! Well, that’s what I presumed it was as it involved a lot of angry Egyptian words!!

Cairo is a lot cooler than Luxor. At 35C it is heaven and I actually feel like I can breathe! We meet the rep at the airport, a gangly man looking rather sheepish in his bright Barbie pink First Choice shirt. He should have chosen the multi-coloured one – its far less garish! The rep is travelling with a police escort. The guy is very broad-shouldered and has the biggest handgun you ever saw sticking out his back pocket. Its kinda scary…!

We take the minibus to the hotel which is right on the other side of the city. The financial district is very modern looking with tall towers and brand name shops, but the rest of Cairo was quite dilapidated. As far as the eye could see there were ramshackle looking houses and you could tell that most people living in Cairo were pretty poor.

The hotel in contrast is big and shiny. We freshen up and go to the light show being held at The Pyramids. It was absolutely fantastic and Marlon Brando’s (or is it Ben Kiingsley?) voiceover was just incredible! It told the story of how the pyramids were made, why, and also talks about the lesser known smaller pyramids of the queens and children.

Outside some beggar children asked Reuben for ‘baksheesh’. He held out his hand and went ‘baksheesh’ to them, and they started dancing for him. It was quite amusing to see this kid trying to dance among the crowds of people, coaches and a cow lying in the middle of the road!

Sunday, July 13, 2008

The West bank

It is a scorcher today and I do not feel good. I’m very excited to see the Valley of the Kings and we have an early start as it is very exposed so its important to see it all before the sun gets too high. However, as it is with most tour groups, there are always slow people and it makes the day drag longer than necessary. Today felt like one of those days. Its only 9am and I feel very faint with the heat.

I somehow manage to go into the tombs of Rameses the Great and Rameses IV before feeling so bad I simply have to sit down. My stomach is cramping like mad and the tablets I took earlier are not helping at all. One of the women on the boat with us offered to take me back so we go to the centre for a loo break and then to the coach. We drive on to Hatsheput’s temple and I think I’m going to collapse, even though I’m sitting down in an air-conditioned coach! I stay behind. Reuben feels bad leaving me behind and offers to stay with me, but I tell him to go on without me or I’ll feel bad for making him miss out!

It is turning out to be 47C today and even Reuben is suffering from the heat! Everyone returns from the temple and just before we set off again I throw up. So much for the scarab’s good luck! Only the thing is, the loo is so small that I have to stand outside so I can lean over the bowl so everyone can hear me and the poor couple behind me have to watch the entire thing. Great. I’m sick and incredibly embarrassed. I apologise to the couple behind me.
“As long as you’re okay?” the man says.
I weakly nod, feeling like absolute shit, and try to sleep on Reuben’s shoulder. The coach sets off for the Valley of the Queens. I just want to sleep. Some others stay back on the coach as well as its now too hot for them as well.

By the time we get back to the Orchid everyone is asking if I’m okay, that I seem to look better, and maybe I should have some hot lime juice and sleep. I go straight to my cabin and sleep all day. I get woken up for lunch but refuse to eat. I get woken up for dinner and manage two spoons of soup before feeling sick again. Man I feel soooo shitty.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

The East bank

We went through the Esna Lock at 10.30am this morning. We watched the engine crew working at the front and edging forwards in the queue of traffic going through the lock. It took a good hour to start queuing and actually get through. The engine crew must be suffering! We think its hot just standing on deck but image if you were working inside with all that steam from the engines around you all the time. Its just unthinkable working conditions.
Here in Luxor you have the East and West banks. The East bank contains Luxor itself and all the temples, shops, hotels etc. The West bank is where all the farmers and alabaster shops are, as well as the Valley of the Kings, Queens and Hatsheput’s Temple.

So it’s the East bank today and we went to Karnak temple and Luxor temple this evening. Both were amazing but unfortunately I feel a bit ‘delicate’ – Egypt is notorious for causing diarrhoea, no matter how careful you are - so didn’t enjoy them as much as I normally would have.

Karnak temple had a sacred lake and scarab statue, and a walk seven times around the scarab anticlockwise brings you good luck. Hope it brings me good luck as being dehydrated through a stomach virus in a very hot country does not make a happy Clare!

Luxor temple was beautiful and has a Coptic church tucked away in the back but it wasn’t in the best of conditions. Most of the decorative paint had come away and the stone looked very worse for wear.

Friday, July 11, 2008

I'm in Egypt...

And doing nothing again. Its great! There are some mad people sunbathing in nearly 47C heat of the midday sun but then if they want skin cancer, that’s up to them! I’m staying here in the nice cool air-conditioned bar with my free teas and cakes! Good thing about all-inclusive trips: all drinks and food are free, even the alcoholic drinks, although its so hot you wouldn’t drink much as you’d just dehydrate quicker than ever! Tea is good for heat. I’m liking Egyptian tea.

Some people went to Abu Simbel at 4am this morning. We saw some pictures taken by another tourist and they were excellent. Reuben and I definitely need to go there another time!

The ship started to sail back to Luxor this afternoon after its two day stay in Aswan. We are expected to go through the Esna lock later tonight which should be quite a sight but Egyptian time could mean it won’t happen until early morning…

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Aswan

We’re in Aswan and its very very hot. And we’re doing nothing! I love my holiday. All the other tourists have gone to the Aswan Dam, Unfinished Obelisk and Philae temple. Some of them are also going on the camel ride to a nearby Nubian village.

Today the kitchen staff serve traditional Egyptian food so we have ful, rice and something very similar to moussaka. It was delicious. For dessert it was baklava which was so good that I simply have to buy some when I get to duty free!

Some of the passengers wanted to go on a felucca, a working boat on the Nile. It was a bit pricey for what it is, so Reuben and I opted out and just waved at everyone from the top deck! The felucca trips look like fun though. Earlier a felucca with a party on board went by. There was dancing and drums and just enough space on the felucca for ten people!

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Kom Ombo

Kom Ombo temple is dedicated to Sobek so it has a small area of mummified crocodiles. It also contains the only known Egyptian calendar so Islam was translating the seasons and the number of days worship needed for each festival while pointing at the symbols on this calendar. If any tourist went there without a guide, they would have missed it and just thought it another pretty pattern. It was amazing and so good to have that kind of knowledge behind the visits!

This evening we had the option of seeing Philae Island from a boat ride but we opted out. All this heat is beginning to tire us out and we came here to relax!!

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Edfu Temple

I can’t believe how damn hot it is here! I’m wearing sunblock, sitting in the shade, and I’m still getting a tingly feeling on my arms and legs. I think Reuben is turning a darker shade of brown…

We paid up for our excursions, which we thought were included but it was a misreading of the brochure. We’re going to all the temples except Abu Simbel and Philae and are passing on the day trip to Aswan dam and the Unfinished Obelisk. Maybe another time. Both require a 4am wake up call and a police escort for a 3 hour trip through the burning desert! Uhm, no thanks! We’re on honeymoon and would like some lie-ins please without worrying about being hijacked!!

So first trip is to Edfu Temple. It is gorgeous and our Egyptologist guide, Islam, points out all the interesting carvings and explains the myths and history behind the temple’s origins. He also recites the story of Isis, Osiris, Nephthys and Seth which was a better translation than I remember reading about in my mythology books. It was very hot though, even for 5pm. This area of Egypt is about 40-45C most days, and the lower temperature is while standing in the shade! Oh yes, I was suffering!! Back on the boat we sailed towards Kom Ombo ready for our early morning tour at the temple there.

Monday, July 07, 2008

The Orchid

We got to the airport okay but the airline gave us seats ‘together’ which was with an aisle between us. I wonder what word they use when you sit without a large gap between you… The food was nasty. Some undercooked scrambled egg, a sausage that tasted of about 40% meat and some very squidgy mushrooms. My stomach flipped and I nearly threw up from the smell. However when Reuben told me on the plane we were going on a cruise for the first week I nearly had a hernia. I’ve always wanted to go on a cruise, and a cruise in Egypt is just incredible! I can’t wait…

The cruise ship is the Orchid and is fairly average as cruise ships go. It has a good number of staff running the laundry, room service, engine room, bar, restaurant and kitchen, and reception. The waiting staff are hilarious! “Egyptian?” they ask Reuben.
“No, guess where I’m from!” he challenges.
“India? Africa?”
“Mauritius!”
“Where?”
(This was to continue for the rest of the holiday!)

Anyway they teach us some Arabic words. ‘Aalikyum asalam’ means ‘hello’, ‘chokran’ means ‘thank you’, ‘laa’ means ‘no’ and ‘baksheesh’ means ‘money’. Seriously, these are all the words you need!!! When you get hassled by the street traders you just say ‘laa baksheesh’ or just ‘laa laa laa’ (no-no-no!). Easy peasy!

The food is okay. They must think we eat roast beef every day because that’s all they seem to serve. Oh and there are always roasted or boiled potatoes. I’m avoiding raw veg, fruit, salads and dairy. So I can have the grilled veg but not the cheese omelette. My tea and coffee will be black. The only dairy I will have is a smidgen of milk with my cereal!

The travel rep briefs us on Egyptian customs so we don’t offend people, and warns us about the aforementioned street traders. There are also special tourist police in white uniforms at all tourist attractions in case we get in trouble and need help. We were also told about taxi drivers and how unless you are firm and specifically say where you want to go, they will take you to meet their family and will be obliged to buy things from all their shops!

Sunday, July 06, 2008

Gatwick Worth Hotel

The hotel we stayed in at Gatwick is horrible. All the eateries are shut by the time we get there and it is all very gloomy. The TV reception is bad and the vending machine is extortionate. Need a holiday right now!

Saturday, July 05, 2008

The aftermath

People are calling me ‘Mrs’ and I hate it already. ‘Mrs’ implies that I’m old. I’m not. I’m 29. so I might be ‘Ms’ for the time being. Reuben and I were second down for breakfast; Pamela and David have beaten us to the top spot! We don’t look too worse for wear in our t-shirts and jeans, but I have popped my tiara back on for a bit of post-bridal glamour! We get the remaining guests to sign our guestbook which we forgot to get out yesterday, and see everyone off with our table decorations clutched in their arms! Amanda and Steve help us pack the car and take it all to our flat, and laugh as Reuben struggles to carry me over the threshold without pulling a back muscle!

After they left we returned the suits and then started to pack for our honeymoon. All I know is that its in Egypt for two weeks, nothing else. I don’t even know where in Egypt so I can’t read up on it beforehand. Its all very exciting though!

Friday, July 04, 2008

The Big Day

I got hardly any sleep last night. I was too excited. It was like being a kid and going to Disneyland. We all had breakfast kindly brought, prepared and cooked by Amanda – salmon and scrambled egg on muffins with strawberries and raspberries. After our filling breakfast we all showered/washed, dressed and got ready to move to the hotel.

We arrived in two cars and waited around in the reception for a while until the room was ready. Our hairdressers arrived while we were waiting and we all went up to the room together, laden with dresses, shoes, headpieces, makeup, suitcases… I had one hairdresser while Tara and Amanda had another – my hair took much longer to straighten then curl into place! I then did my makeup and waited around until the last minute to put my dress on. During this time Anna panicked about the buttonholes not arriving yet, Debbie phoned about missing a train and being late, Nanny’s room was not on the ground floor, and several rooms were in a state of not being ready or cleaned in time for people to check in and get changed. Oh, and I worried that the bathroom lights had been left on and could Steve go check? Poor old Tara and Amanda were running up and down the hotel seeing people and fetching things, it was mad!

Finally 2.30pm rolled by and Amanda tied me up into my dress. 3pm on the dot John the photographer arrived and things got rolling. We did a number of poses and Dad was called up for some shots too. John then left to take some photos of people arriving and I started to pace. My stomach tightens a little with nerves and Amanda does a last-minute tightening of the dress! Finally Iain came up to say everyone was ready and we started going downstairs.

Dad is patiently waiting by the doors that lead into the gardens. Yes, we are getting married outside in the gazebo (which is a permanent structure so the marriage is legal!). There are lots of people here. Lots and lots of people. I don’t think I know some of them. The music starts and Tara and Amanda start walking. And then Dad and I start walking. And I start to feel a bit choked up as its all fitting into place and finally (finally!) happening! Only 15 months of planning…!

I reach the gazebo and Reuben is standing there, looking a little nervous himself, and is just gorgeous in his morning suit! I somehow manage to get inside the gazebo and the music stops. Then the ceremony starts. Jenny’s poem was excellent and Sabina’s reading was really well done too. I did sniffle a little bit but only because I couldn’t actually believe that someone as wonderful as Reuben was actually getting married to me!!

Once the ceremony was over and the bans signed, it was drinks and snacks while speaking with everyone who came. John was stalking me so there are lots of photos with me with funny expressions on my face as I’m yakking away. Then the group photos started. And then Reuben and I went out the back to have our own photos done. And then we did mock-cake-cutting and champagne toasting. My face really started to ache from all the smiling involved!

We then went out and started a receiving line into the reception hall for the meal. This way we get to say ‘hello’ to everyone at least once! It was during this time that my dress tore. I’d greeted off the last lot of people and suddenly there was this ripping sound and my train was on the floor with the hook hanging by a single thread. I was mortified!

But no time to waste. I rip the hook off its thread and hold on to it as Reuben and I enter the reception room. We cut the cake for real in front of lots of flashing cameras. It was like being at a film premiere! We then sit down and my dad did his ‘father of the bride’ speech, which was very good. Reuben then made his ‘thank you’ speech and Jeshen did a hilarious ‘best man’ speech. Definitely one of the better ones I’ve heard!

Then finally we eat! Salmon and prawn roulade followed by lamb and veg for the meat eaters, and melon trio followed by celeriac and goats cheese rosti for the veggies. All the food was excellent and people made the most of the table wine! While wedding cake and coffee was being served, Reuben and I visited some tables to chat with people some more. I was then whisked off by Tara and Pete to get my hook sewn back onto my dress so I could have my train up for the dancing. Pete spent a good five minutes concentrating very hard on my buttocks while sewing the hook! No, seriously, he did a fantastic job. Some people trod on the train afterwards and the hook still held! I was very impressed.

Hook sewn and shoes cleaned to the best of anyone’s ability, I rushed back to the reception hall to find Kev’s very impressive disco set-up. Very large speakers were booming out music and powerful purple light beams were shooting around the room. I double check the music order and ask for a nice white spotlight! And then Reuben and I dance to my fave song, Wonderful World by Louis Armstrong. We had Heatwave’s Always and Forever afterwards and our parents and Tara and Pete danced along to that too.

And then the Indian music came on. All of Reuben’s side were jiggling away for ages so I asked for a bit of Western stuff. Suddenly, they all sat down and my side were dancing instead! It was a bit funny actually. But the dancing went on until about 2am so everyone had a good time!! I had a few drinks and got to dance with some people I hadn’t seen in ages.

Admittedly we went to bed about 12:45 because my dress was killing me by that point, but the party was definitely still going strong after we left. We got upstairs and Reuben started to untie me. I had red lines all the way down my torso where the dress had been holding me in all day. I even thought I had some minor bruising at first but it ended up just being heat patches where my skin couldn’t breathe.

But it was a great day. I remember every single second and wanted to do it all over again!!

Thursday, July 03, 2008

One more day to go…

Reuben is going to work today but I have a day off. The first thing I do is drive to Hoddesdon and pick up my wedding dress. It is a beautiful full-length Amanda Wyatt strapless ivory dress with beading and ruching to one side. It is stunning! At home I hung it up in the spare room to air and straighten any creases. I then texted Reuben to say that if he came home while I was out he was forbidden to enter the spare room!!

I went out again and went to a small nail place in ‘old’ Cheshunt to have a French manicure. The women in there just spoke to each other in their own Oriental language and didn’t say a word to me other than ‘What you want?’ and ‘£8 please’. It was a good job though and was otherwise a pleasant experience.

I rushed home and was just in time to great Melissa and Jenny back from their rambles in York. We had a chat and went through their photos. Reuben came home and had an armful of stuff people at his office had given him – a banner, cards and vouchers. He then went off to deliver the hired suits to everyone and stay at his parents’ for the night. I gave him a mock-stern warning to turn up the next day and then we all got ready for our girly night in. I had pizza, wine and romantic slush. Anna, Amanda and Tara all arrived and Melissa grabs ‘Slipper and the Rose’ and starts to watch it. I don’t think she realised it was a 3hr musical… Halfway through and after lots of fast forwarding we plumped for ‘Love Actually’ instead!

I insist on an early night – don’t want too many eye bags – so beds were inflated and goodnights were said over Jenny’s singing ‘Get Me To The Church On Time’.